http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DQjExmkCKF4
Headed back to France Monday night wearing brand new Gore-Tex waterproof gloves, with an equally new luminous yellow waterproof (so they claim) oversuit packed away in the old bike roll (no fancy-Dan panniers on this old bus). Boarded the Portsmouth/Caen ferry just before 11pm with three other Beemer pilots who, I discovered later, were heading for a couple of weeks' touring in SW France and the Pyrenees. Whilst waiting to board they parked their pannier-laden beasts alongside and I sat gobsmacked as the first bike (one of these massive new 1300 Beemers, I think) mechanically raised itself up onto its centre stand with the aid of what sounded like some sort of glorified clockwork motor while the pilot began fiddling with what I thought was a rather large wing-mirror but which turned out to be some sort of hi-tech satnav, radio, intercom unit. Thought it was a bit odd when he apparently started talking to himself. Aye, aye, a nutter. Then I noticed a tiny microphone attached to his flip-front helmet and eventually twigged he was nattering to his two chums parked immediately behind. All three riders then spent about five minutes busily tapping what appeared to be little matchsticks onto what I guessed (probably incorrectly) were mobile phones connected to some weird electronic nerve centre on the bikes. Bit dark so I couldn't really see what was going on. However, had it been broad daylight I'd still have been completely in the dark. Giggled for a second as I caught my elderly Beemer giving these three flashy Beemer machines the eye with an air of wordly-wise contempt. Not for us this modern, gizmo accessorised, touring malarky. We're two of a kind. Just give us an open road, a creased up map, a tatty old rucksack and we'll boogie forever.
Once aboard, I parked up behind the trio and headed to the reclining chair dorm to grab a good corner spot, leaving the lads watching with worried concern as the deck hands secured their prized machines with ropes and straps. Just for a moment I'm sure I caught my old bike giggling again. Bagged a good spot by slinging helmet and jackets in a secluded corner behind a row of seats (those seats are impossible to kip in), nipped to the bar for a large G and T, had a quick smoke on the back deck (place seemed to be full of excitable French kids returning back after a school trip to Angleterre) then headed for the self-serve restaurant for a bit of grub. As usual, I couldn't decide what to go for as I paced up and down looking at the goodies on display. Then a very French looking chap plumped for a salad thing with vinaigrette and a couple of sardines on top. Good choice, monsewer; that's the one for me! So I grabbed one, plonked it on the tray alongside a bit of bread and a midget bottle of Cote de Rhone, and whizzed to the till before I could change my mind. At the till the lady asked if I was a lorry driver. Dunno why. Maybe it was my choice of grub; maybe it was because the other chap was a lorry driver; or maybe I just look like one. Strangely, I was asked the same question the next morning at breakfast. Think I might say 'yes' next time and get the grub a bit cheaper.
Dinner done, I then headed back to the rear deck for a coffee and a fag as we slid out of Portsmouth and into the channel. So much more peaceful without those noisy kids. After yawning a bit, it was time for bo-bos. Descended into the bowels of the boat, eventually found my dorm, couldn't see a thing 'cos the lights were out, headed for my spot in the opposite corner, tripped over a few bodies on the floor, place seemed to be packed with a bunch of gigglers. Dunno what's so funny. Too much booze I reckon. Eventually staggered to within inches of my bagged space when someone tapped on my shoulder. A French lady. "Excuse me sir, zees rhoome eez a private party." Bugger. Wrong room. I was in the damned French kids' dorm. Lady no doubt presumed me to be some kind of sex maniac, child molesting, midnight prowler. Damned embarrassing. Then had to reverse out, tripping up over hundreds of bodies all of which were sniggering their heads off and, no doubt, pointing at the leather-clad weirdo. Hell. Sheer hell. Gathered my composure and crept next door. Lights out again, very little sign of humanoids, tip-toed to my spot, took off leathers, assumed horizontal, kipped.
Left the boat the next morning in convoy with the high-tech Beemer trio who were heading for a Bordeaux night stop. Just down the road lads. Should make it by lunchtime. Just follow the signs. Keep your eyes on the road, not those confounded satnavs. Left them and their wide panniers stuck behind a line of caravans as my low-tech steed charged us up to the head of the traffic-light queue. Then we were gone. Weather started off cloudy but soon cleared up. Bright sunshine all the way. Took off jacket at a Le Mans coffee stop. Whizzed through Tours, Loches, Chateauroux, la Chatre and various other places that I'd passed through a few days earlier in pouring rain. Arrived home at 4pm, had a quick change and drove off in the dogwagon to pick up the mutts. Sat outside as the church bells clanged seven, ice clinking in a scotch and dry, Sprocket rolling in lush green grass, Jock wee-ing against his far flung territorial markers, swallows sunning on telegraph wires. Phone reconnected so left a message that I got back okay. Evening walk up the granite cross. Back in the old routine.
Er, passed some glorious sights on the way back. Had my camera with me but only managed a couple of shots...




























