by
frankofyle
@ 2007-07-13 - 17:41:29
Lovely day yesterday. (Lovely day today come to think of it. Blistering sunshine. Clear blue skies. A decadent lunch of an apricot main course followed by a gin and tonic dessert under the garden brolly. Really pleasant change after the three days of grey sogginess that's marked the somewhat less than perfect start to Georgie and Dons' holiday week.)
Anyway, yesterday...
With morning sunshine steaming wispy clouds of damp from the hills, we decided to load up the car with various sharp gardening implements and head for 'the cottage' (the dilapidated pile of overgrown granite rocks next to 'the barn') in the optimistic hope of knocking back some of the green stuff that's been slowly creeping over our number two dream home (number one is 'the barn' but, as blah-blahed in a previous posting, the powers that be won't even think about granting us permission to renovate this until we've done 'the cottage').
So, having spent a little more time than expected in loading up the car (clippers, axe, handsaw, logsaw, massive lock-cutting thingy that's Georgie uses for demolishing thick brambles and tree branches, boots, socks, hats, waterproofs - well y'never know, spare teeshirts to replace sweaty ones, towel, Thermos, biscuits, stale bread, water, I've started so I'll finish, dogs, dog biscuits, dogfood, dog blanket, dog bowl, dog water, fags, lighter, cds, wallet, credit card, coinage for motorway tolls, handbags, loo-roll, mobile phone, cutlery, er..., think that's about it but I'm bound to have forgotten something...), we eventually hit the road at around two-ish. So we arrived there at about five-ish. Should have been around four-ish but Georgie wanted to see if anything had been done to that house near Tulle that we almost bought.
Personally, with houses, as in life, I'm a firm believer that one should never go back (army upbringing y'know). But Georgie, like all females, has this curiosity thing that us blokes will never understand. So we went back. Big mistake.
The tired old house that we actually left England to purchase, renovate and live in, only to pull out of at the eleventh hour when I thought the negatives outweighed the positives (see one of my very first postings), now had a brand new roof, new windows, cleared garden, cleared trees on the steep hillside round the back and a caravan parked in the side area. I must admit it looked very impressive. On the upside, we were pleased the place was now obviously very loved and being renovated almost exactly as we'd have done it ourselves. On the downside, I was once again in the doghouse for getting cold feet and not going ahead with Georgie's dream home. Hmm... still think I was right. Unfortunately, she thinks I was wrong. So therefore I'm wrong. And always will be. No question. See... never go back.
Hit the road again and headed south for Serilhac, stopping off at St. Fortunade's superb little boulangerie for bread, quiche and a slice of potato and meat pie (Don, sitting in the back of the car and unable to resist their expert scrounging techniques, ended up giving most of hers to the dogs).
Bit further on we arrived at the edge of the long ridge and saw the vast valleys of the Dordogne and Lot stretching out before us to a misty blue infinity where sky and land merged as one. For me, it's a breathtaking sight. I've always felt a reassuring sense of belonging high in the hills above valleys (might be my Scottish highland roots or being brought up high on the Rock of Gibraltar - or a subconscious reaction to being a short-arse). But for Georgie, it never stirs the soul in quite the same way - she much prefers the cosy sense of security found in valley settings, hence her attachment to the house at Tulle.
Descended the snaking road to Serilhac, took our little turning towards 'the barn', parked halfway up the bumpy forest track and prepared for our long trek uphill. Even though it was around 5pm, the sun still blazed away and we arrived sweaty at the barbed wire gate of our field, weighed down by bags of goodies and awkward to carry gardening implements. Having crawled through this final barrier, we eventually arrived at our destination to be met by a herd of very bored and extremely curious horses that belong to Katja, the German wife of Laurent, the farmer who'd sold us the property. Although we don't have much of a problem with these beasts, our dogs do. Basically, they're scared. So they bark. Then the horses get a bit territorial and threatening. Which is the last thing you need when you're in the doghouse with the missus, knackered from driving and mountaineering, minding your own business on your own property and dying for a fag and a cup of Thermos tea.
Despite being the son of horse-riding military man, the brother of a champion show-jumper sister whose house is crammed with horsey rosettes and prize silverware, the uncle of a champion dressage and point-to-point neice and the bro-in-law of a galloping Yorkshireman, I have little affinity with anything equine. None in fact. Far as I'm concerned they're all dangerous bad-tempered bastards that are to be avoided at all times. It's an attitude I've held ever since I was plonked on one aged ten, only to fall off immediately it took its first step, whereupon I flatly refused to re-mount, thus publicly humiliating and further disappointing my cavalier, cavalry-inclined dad. Four years later I was again plonked on one out in the Nigerian 'bush' where I nervously tagged along behind a demented bunch of military gits and their ghastly horsey offspring. When the tally-hoeing buggers started galloping, my flea-ridden nag made an attempt to follow suit but its front legs crumpled and I found myself flying between its ears, hitting terra firma some considerable time later, having executed about half-a-dozen airborne somersaults. Turned out it was an elderly racehorse that had broken its legs more times than a geriatric footballer. Never ridden a horse since. And flatly refuse to do so ever again.
Anyway, so there we were, sat outside our pile of overgrown granite rocks, optimistically referred to as 'the cottage', under attack by a herd of killer horses, with Georgie and Don restraining Jock and Sprocket on leads, with me swinging a four-foot long axe and screaming defiance when the horses' attention was momentarily diverted by a couple of astonished French horsey ladies with a camera. Haven't a clue who they were or what they were up to but I strongly expect they were friends of Katja. In which case she'll probably be horrified to learn of my somewhat interesting attitude to her darling nags. Doghouse again.
When the ladies and horses momentarily disappeared out of sight, I took the opportunity of cutting down a twelve foot high thorny shrub that was growing out of the cottage steps. This, I thought, would provide ideal weaponry to defend my troops. And so it proved when the inquisitive horses turned up again about five minutes later. Swinging the shrub high above my head, I ran straight for herd's leader, screaming like a braveheart, risking life and limb in a final act of defiance as I thrashed the beast's face and buttocks. "Gertcha, y'wee beastie, awa' doon the hill, y'bas'. Awey, awey, oot, oot!" And luckily he galloped off, taking his mates with him, but not before kicking a final flourish with his rear legs. Bastard.
With the horses grazing at a safe distance (safe? - never safe with nags around), we started cutting the foliage from the cottage's front, revealing a few interesting surprises. Behind a massive ivy growth we discovered a rather attractive front door. Bit weather-beaten but restorable. And a sawn-off, ivy covered tree trunk growing through the front steps. Tried to open the front door but couldn't due to roof edging slabs of granite having fallen behind it which were visible through the delicate wrought-ironwork in the two upper door panels where glass had once protected against the elements. In estate agent parlance, there was loads of potential in this superbly located bijou residence that oozed period charm. But clearly Georgie wasn't convinced. As well as having to do loads of work in restoring this property to its former glory, I still have a mountain of work to do in convincing my dearly beloved that the effort will eventually be worthwhile.
But do it I will. I'm determined.
Around 8.30 with the warm sun beginning to slowly descend behind us, we sat on the grass in front of the cottage and got stuck into tea and whatever grub we had left while surveying the glorious vista before us. Absolutely marvellous. No regrets whatsoever about buying a place that proves beyond doubt that I'm mad as a hatter. But mark my words, read my lips, one day this place will a domestic gem. A jewel in the Correze crown. You'll see. I'll show you. Just watch.

Packed up at around nine, descended back to the car, loaded up and headed out. Wouldn't be home 'til eleven but it was a glorious evening with the sun slowly setting to our left so I was looking forward to the homeward drive as we began hammering north. Still being in the doghouse, I didn't complain when Georgie chose our cd accompaniment. Neil Young or Willie Nelson would have made it a perfect drive. But the unknown warblers who made unfamiliar noises that pleased the boss but drove me bonkers served just as well. This aural battering had the side effect of sending the dogs and Donnie to sleep, only to be rudely awoken at the motorway toll booth when my coins jammed the machine and I got involved in an interesting conversation with the intercom voice of an unseen French woman.
"Bonjour madame, assistance s'il vous plait, j'ai un bloccaje de monnaie de machine."
"Un bloccaje? Qu'est ce qu'un bloccaje?"
"Er, Un bloccaje - c'est impossible a mettre plus coinaje."
"Coinaje? Qu'est ce que coinaje?"
"Er, monnaie, argent... c'est blockee. Un bloccaje de coinaje."
At this point, Georgie and Don were both doubled up with laughter at my 'Ello 'Ello franglais. And, luckily, the unseen French woman decided that further parlez-vousing in French would be pointless so, in perfect English, she said "if you kindly press the red button, your money will be returned and you can start again..." So I did and it worked perfectly.
"Thank you madame, good evening."
"A pleasure sir, have a good day."
Wouldn't get that back in the cesspit. Just imagine a conversation between a Frenchman who barely speaks a word of English and an unseen nanny-state official at a British toll booth. A frightening comparison.
Arrived home at about eleven in the evening dusk, partially unloaded the car, gave the dogs a quick run up to the cross and back with my twin chickadees and poured a large scotch and dry.
A perfect end to an almost perfect day.